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Paver and Natural Stone Patios in the Pioneer Valley

Goshen stone, bluestone, pavers, and permeable pavers. Designed by Larry, built by our own crews, and sitting on eight to ten inches of dense grade stone rather than the four inches a cheaper bid is quoting you. Most of what decides whether you like this patio in fifteen years happens before a single stone is set.

What a patio costs in Western Mass.

Patios start at $5,000, and the reason is arithmetic rather than policy. Any day heavy equipment is on site, that is $2,500 before anybody has set a stone.

What actually moves the number, roughly in order:

Access

Whether a machine can reach the work, or every yard of stone and every yard of spoil goes through a gate in a wheelbarrow. 

What is underneath

Ledge, clay, and old fill all change what the base has to be, and you do not always know until you open it up.

Grade

Flat is cheap. A slope means retaining, and retaining means more base and more drainage.

Material

Goshen stone costs more to buy than pavers and takes longer to set. Both show up.

What else is going in

Steps, a seating wall, a fire pit, lighting, and drainage are usually where a patio budget actually goes.

Size

Square footage matters less than the five things above it, which surprises most people.

A design is $1,200 and it comes off the project if you build it. You get a 3D rendering.

What goes under a patio?

A patio is four layers and only one of them is visible.

The excavation. We dig out to depth and get rid of the spoil. How deep depends on what we find, which is why a quote that never mentions your soil is a guess.

The base. Eight to ten inches of dense grade stone, compacted in lifts rather than dumped and rolled once. Dense grade carries everything from three-quarter-inch stone down to fines, and the fines are the whole point. They fill the voids between the larger stone so the layer locks up and stays locked. Clean stone with no fines in it never does that.

The bedding. One inch of bedding sand, screeded flat. Not more. A thick sand layer is a soft patio waiting to happen.

The surface, and the edge. Pavers or stone, then paver edging restraints around the whole perimeter, then polymeric sand swept into every joint so the joints bind and ants cannot burrow underneath and undermine the field.

Skip the edging restraints and here is what you get, in order. The pavers separate. The gaps fill with dirt. Plants germinate in the dirt and push the pavers further apart. Then it accelerates, because every millimetre of movement makes the next one easier.

Polymeric sand breaks down over the years and needs redoing. We tell you that at the walkthrough rather than letting you find out.

The whole thing gets pitched to move water off it, and we check that pitch with a laser level rather than by eye.

If you are comparing quotes, ask two questions. How deep is the base, and what is in it. The second one is the one nobody expects.

Choosing the stone

This comes down to what you like and what you can spend. There is no house material here, and I would be wary of a company that has one.

Goshen Stone

A mica schist quarried in Goshen, about twenty minutes west of here. Blues, greys, silvers, tans, and rust in the same load. It is harder to cut and slower to set than anything else we work with, which is why fewer companies offer it and why it costs what it costs. 

Bluestone

Cuts cleaner than Goshen and lays more uniform. If you want a flatter, more formal surface with tight joints, this is usually the answer. Available thermal for grip or natural cleft for texture.

Pavers

The widest range of colour, shape and pattern for the money, and the fastest to install. Modern pavers are dimensionally consistent, which means a large field goes down flat and stays flat if the base under it is right. The joints need polymeric sand refreshed every few years.

Permeable pavers

Same surface, different build-up underneath. Water passes through the joints and into an open-graded stone reservoir instead of running off the edge. Worth considering if you have a runoff problem, a wet spot downhill of where the patio is going, or a site where you would rather not add another impervious surface. We install them for patios and walkways both.

Fieldstone and irregular flagstone

The most natural-looking option and the slowest to lay, because every piece is fitted rather than placed. Good for a patio that is meant to look like it has always been there.

MaterialCostWorking itMaintenanceBest for
Goshen Stone$$$Quarried locally. Harder to cut and slower to set than anything else we work with.Very LowA patio that looks like it belongs in Western Mass
Bluestone$$$Cuts cleaner than Goshen and lays more uniform.Very LowA flatter, more formal surface
Pavers$$Fastest to install. Widest range of colour, shape and pattern.Polymeric sand needs redoing over the yearsMost patios, most walkways, most driveways
Permeable Pavers$$$Same surface, different base build-up. Water goes through instead of running off.Joints need clearing to keep drainingRunoff problems, or a site with coverage limits
Fieldstone & BouldervariesSet with the grapple. Slowest of everything.Very LowWalls, steps, and anything meant to look like it grew there

4 Reasons Why Patios Fail in New England

We get called to look at other people's patios a few times a year, and it is almost always one of four things.

Not enough base

Four inches under a patio in a climate that freezes and thaws thirty or forty times a winter. Water gets into a shallow base, freezes, expands, and lifts the field. Do that for five winters, and you have a wavy patio.

No edging restraints

The field spreads at the perimeter, joints open, dirt fills them, plants take hold, and the spreading accelerates.

Water with nowhere to go

No pitch, or pitch toward the house, or a patio built across the path water was already taking. The stone did not fail. The ground under it did.

Too much bedding sand

Two or three inches of sand instead of one, used to level a base that was not levelled properly. It looks fine on day one and it ruts under furniture within a couple of seasons.

All four are fixable, and none of them are cheap, because fixing them means taking the patio up. Which is the argument for spending the money underneath the first time, where you cannot see it.

What happens, and how long it takes

1.
Property Walkthrough
We walk the property and work out what you are actually trying to do with the space, which is usually a different conversation from the one about square footage.
2.
Design Phase
On anything sizeable that means a design, two or three meetings across three or four weeks, and a 3D rendering before anybody digs.
3.
Schedule Start Date
Small jobs schedule four to six weeks out. On site, a straightforward patio is a few days. A larger one with steps, a wall and drainage runs one to three weeks. New construction often waits on other trades before we can start.
4.
Final Walkthrough
We finish with a walkthrough, and if something is not right at that walkthrough we are not finished.

One year warranty on the workmanship and on anything we plant around it.

Fire pits, seating walls, and steps

Most patios we build are not just a patio. The things that get added, in rough order of how often.

Fire Pits

Built in stone or block, sized to the seating rather than to a catalogue. A fire pit changes how many months a year the patio gets used, which is the actual argument for one in this climate.

Seating walls

A low wall around part of the perimeter, usually capped in the same stone as the patio. Cheaper than furniture, and it never blows over.

Steps and landings

Where the patio meets the house or the grade. Stone treads or block, and this is the detail that most often separates a good patio from an awkward one.

Fireplaces

A bigger build than a fire pit and a bigger number. We have built them.

Frequently Asked Questions

Patios start at $5,000, because having heavy equipment on site costs $2,500 a day before anything else happens. Beyond that, access and what is under the ground move a quote more than square footage does.

We run eight to ten inches of dense grade stone, set by the soil condition rather than a fixed number, then one inch of bedding sand. A lot of installers use four inches. The patio looks identical for the first few years.

A graded mix carrying everything from three-quarter-inch stone down to fines. The fines fill the voids between the larger stone, which is what lets the base compact and stay compacted. Clean stone with no fines never locks up the same way.

Pavers for the widest range of looks per dollar, if you do not mind refreshing joint sand every few years. Goshen stone if you want something quarried twenty minutes away that will still look right in thirty years. Goshen costs more and takes longer to set.

A straightforward one is a few days on site. With steps, a wall and drainage, one to three weeks. Add three or four weeks of design before that on anything sizeable, and four to six weeks of scheduling before that.

Usually not enough base, no edging restraints, too much bedding sand, or water with nowhere to go. Often more than one. All four mean lifting the patio to fix properly, which is why the base is worth paying for the first time.

Yes, patios and walkways both. Same surface, different base build-up; water goes through instead of running off. Worth looking at if you have runoff or a wet spot downhill from where the patio is going.

Autumn. Design takes three or four weeks on anything sizeable and the build schedule fills from there. Calling in May for a June patio usually means the following season.

Beyond Landscape Contracting LLC
83 State Road
Whately, MA 01373
info@example.pro
413-587-0848
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